Oil Change Thread

[sr71blackbird]

I usually change my own oil. I'm sure there are others who do it too. Maybe we can use this thread to talk about it, share tips and product recommendations.


I use sythetic oil, and I add an additve called Tufoil. I change it every 3000 miles. I have a Toyota Camry.
Usually I use a floor jack to get the car up, but I have been having a problem the last few times because as I was under the car, I began to get nausious. Eventually I figured it might be a touch of claustrophobia, so I have been thinking of using ramps instead to give me more room.
Today I bough Rhino Ramps and changed my oil when I got home. I am a little shocked how easy it is. But I still needed someone to spot me as I drove up, because I always worry I will over shoot the ramp and fuck up my car. It actually happened to me a long time ago with the steel ramps on smooth concrete. They kept skidding and I gunned it and the car went over it completely and I swore never again.
But now I'm changing the oil on blacktop and the Rhino Ramps are heavy plastic with rubber feet.
Worked pretty damn well and I didn't get the nausia as bad.

[SatCam]

you drive a camry, use synthetic and change the oil every 3k? That's like throwing out milk a week before it expires

[Nothing Sound]

I've used a synthetic blend motor oil for a few years now.
Synthetic blend is good because you get the lubricating power
of oil and the ability to withstand high heat from the synthetic side.

I also have a Toyota Camry (1997) and the synthetic blend thing must
be working because this is a video that I took a little over 8,000 miles ago.

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[furie]

5000 is fine for a camry

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[sr71blackbird]

I've used a synthetic blend motor oil for a few years now.
Synthetic blend is good because you get the lubricating power
of oil and the ability to withstand high heat from the synthetic side.

I also have a Toyota Camry (1997) and the synthetic blend thing must
be working because this is a video that I took a little over 8,000 miles ago.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fOB3WswdCHo&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fOB3WswdCHo&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Thats awesome! I had 400,000 on my 92 Camry when I sold it in 2003 when I got my "new" one. I did he same thing, but used the Tufoil with the synthetic. Its still been seen driving around since then.
The mechanic couldnt believe it had almost no emissions each time I had the inspection.
I know I can go more miles than 3000, but I like doing it at 3, and sometimes I go over a few hundred.

[hunnerbun]

What is the difference between regular oil and synthetic anyway? I thought that with synthetic you could go longer between oil changes. if you are going to keep changing it at the same time frame why would you pay more for synthetic?
Just wonderin'...

[sr71blackbird]

I know I can go more miles than I do, I just want the engine to last as long as physically possible. Most of the time when I change my oil, its still is coming out semi transparent.

[Nothing Sound]

What is the difference between regular oil and synthetic anyway?

My mechanic told me that regular oil is better for friction than synthetic oil and synthetic oil withstands heat better than regular oil.
That's why he uses a blend at his shop and told me to use a blend when ever I need to add oil between changes. So far it seems to be working.

[boosterp]

Synthetic oils also have additional additives that reduces friction between moving parts. It stands up to heat better than conventional and most new vehicles use or recommend synthetic.

I use Castrol high mileage in my Bronco with a Fram Tough Guard oil filter. At least a 3 days a month I am off road so the synthetic also helps in preventing gunk build up. My Ranger has 60k miles and I use fully synthetic Castrol.

[epo]

Animals.

[boosterp]

Animals.

I only pay people to do the things that I do not feel like doing. I enjoy maintaining my vehicles.

[Hottub]

My mechanic changes the oil and filter for me. He also lubes, checks all fluids, hoses, etc and rotates the tires as needed. Why the hell would I want to do all of that myself? I am not a mechanic. I was not trained to spot problems before they happen. I check his pc, he checks my car. We do what we each were trained to do.

[Devo37]

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/Devo37/castrol-use-your-dipstick.jpg

Think with your dipstick, Jimmy!!!

[FrogSlayer]

I use the jack that was stock with my F350, it is a bottle type screw jack that I can run up and down with a 1/2 chisel chucked into my drill. I set the vehicle on a jackstand and start draining. I like the jack set up as it is fast with the drill.
My truck, I don't have to jack up but it takes 15 qts so that is always a messy job.

I recently purchased a pump
http://www.mityvac.com/hq_images/07201.jpg
for use on my lawnmowers and the boat and I love it..

[Devo37]

aside from saving a few bucks, is there any advantage to changing your own oil?

[iSpider]

aside from saving a few bucks, is there any advantage to changing your own oil?



Making sure it's done properly...

[biggestmexi]

I use sythetic oil, and I add an additve called Tufoil..

LOL, i never even heard of that and I know a lot of people with high horsepower cars

I would skip that on every oil change but recommend lucas every other oil change and seafoam once a year if your that anal. most of the reason the engine last the way they do is craftmanship not anal oil changes

I know I can go more miles than I do, I just want the engine to last as long as physically possible. Most of the time when I change my oil, its still is coming out semi transparent.

You wont harm the car if you go to 5,000. most synthetics will fo ovre that anyway and still owrk fine. Mobil1 and amsoil come to mind


OH AND

http://ronfez.net/forums/showthread.php?t=81362

:furious::furious:

[Nothing Sound]

... if your that anal.

you're

[biggestmexi]

you're

nah

i dont do that stuff.

i rarely change my oil at 3k let alone 5.

[boosterp]

aside from saving a few bucks, is there any advantage to changing your own oil?



Making sure it's done properly...

That and I can spot problems if they occur especially on a 4x4.

[Ponyboy]

fuck all that....I usually just wait til there's smoke coming out of the exhaust and give the car to my half-imbecile cousin Jimmy to fix...he's good that way!!

[PapaBear]

2000 Chevy Prizm. Mobile 1 10W30 every 6000 miles. Been doing it for the whole 8 years I've had the car.

[Farmer Dave]

4 words-fumoto oil drain valve. Fuck drain plugs and hot oil bathes. May not be good for every vehicle but its great on my chevy diesel pickup.

[sr71blackbird]

Dave, I never heard of that, but on my old Camry I had a Fram oil plug thing that screwed into where the drain bolt went and it worked, but I fould it to be very slow and I took it out after 3 oil changes with frustration. Ill look into the fumoto. I know I can go more miles than I do, but since I had such good luck doing it this way, I want to keep doing it. I believe that symthetic is also better for the environment as well. It has less likelyhood of burning so it doesn't contribute as much as conventional oil to airborne contaminates. I'd like to find an Amsoil dealer, but I can't pin them down on the Island. I tried eBay but can't find it cheap. I'm not paying $20 a quart!
If I had my own home, I'd build a pair of cement ramps that I could drive up to do this work. I know some people who do it in the street with the curb, but to me that's crazy.

[sr71blackbird]

Also, I change my own because I know that mechanics will rush through the job, and not let all the old oil dran out and they won't pre fill the oil filter with oil like I do. I let the filter saturate in oil for a while so the engine doesn't run without oil for a while. When you put in a dry filter, the engine draws its oil direct from the filteram if there is no oil in it, it runs dry for a bit and that hurts the engine.

[Farmer Dave]

This guy should be able to help you out assuming he ships and you have the fore thought to order in advance.http://www.theoilgeek.com/

[biggestmexi]

Dave, I never heard of that, but on my old Camry I had a Fram oil plug thing that screwed into where the drain bolt went and it worked, but I fould it to be very slow and I took it out after 3 oil changes with frustration. Ill look into the fumoto. I know I can go more miles than I do, but since I had such good luck doing it this way, I want to keep doing it. I believe that symthetic is also better for the environment as well. It has less likelyhood of burning so it doesn't contribute as much as conventional oil to airborne contaminates. I'd like to find an Amsoil dealer, but I can't pin them down on the Island. I tried eBay but can't find it cheap. I'm not paying $20 a quart!
If I had my own home, I'd build a pair of cement ramps that I could drive up to do this work. I know some people who do it in the street with the curb, but to me that's crazy.

SRSLY?

Why dont you buy a jack as it would be much more useful in the long run.

Also if you want to help the enviroment, quit wasting your oil by changing it so soon.

And how often do you replace other things on your car's engine?

Is it what it says to do in the manual as well?

Like spark plugs, wires and what not......how often do you clean your maf?

[biggestmexi]

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00950242000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipme nt&keyword=jack

[biggestmexi]

Here read this. Let me know what state you are in so I do not buy your car for my daughter.

TufOil contains PTFE. PTFE is BAD !!!

TufOil (basically the same as Slick 50) is a barrier ingredient and the possble effects it causes is that it seems to only make the oil oxidize rather quickly after adding the additive.

Again ... TufOil contains PTFE. PTFE is bad. Basically marketed as Teflon ... and they piggyback off the fact that everyone has seen the "egg slip off the frying pan" commercial on TV. Dupont owns the Teflon technology and they even state that Teflon is not good for an internal combustion engine. There were a lot of FTC lawsuits ... and settlements ... regarding the use of Teflon in aftermarket additives.

If you think that you need better barrier protection, use an oil that has a high level of moly as an additive that is included direct from the manufacturer. There is simply no need for any of those snakeoil type additives. Choose a good oil with a good antiwear package in it and there is simply no need for TufOil (or Slick 50). If you want protection from metal to metal contact on a cold start, choose a quality synthetic oil, or an oil with moly in it.

There is more to an oil than the sum of its parts which show up in a typical UOA/VOA (Used Oil Analysis/Virgin Oil Analysis). That's why some additives backfire. There is an optimal amount of moly/boron/zinc/phosphorous/calcium, etc ... and the type/form/percentage of each is critical to it's optimum performance.

You will not see much difference in you UOA's using TufOil, but what it does is cause pitting of the yellow metals and unless you pull your motor apart to examine them before and after, your test's could show excellent #'s.

Do you want to risk bearing failure? This is one thing that Briggs and Straton found when they did their test on PTFE. It showed that the machine running the PTFE had actually pitted the yellow metals where the other machine that ran with standard oil showed no such evidence.

In closing: Hundreds of Engineers, Scientists and Chemists (spending thousands of hours) have done an excellent job assembling good oils that do not need these magic additives.

[Nothing Sound]

In closing: Hundreds of Engineers, Scientists and Chemists (spending thousands of hours) have done an excellent job assembling good oils that do not need these magic additives.

I have to agree with this and I think my video speaks for itself.

[sr71blackbird]

All I know is that at one point with my old Camry, a seal blew on the motor and I lost all my oil and drove it for 50 miles with no oil in it and my temerature guage didn't even show it was getting hot. That's because it didn't even matter that there was no oil. But I still swear by it and recommend Tufoil despite what those scientists say. There are people that have an interest in making mechanical things break down faster, because they make money on either your repairs or purchasing new cars. I am sure if you looked into who pays those scientists, you will see they get their money from auto manufacturers. Bottom line is they are in business to have you buy a new car every 3 years. I on the other hand want my car to last over 400,000 miles. Who you gonna believe?

[biggestmexi]

. I on the other hand want my car to last over 400,000 miles. Who you gonna believe?

You dont even realize how many cars run on NORMAL oil with no additives and make that.

[sr71blackbird]

I know, and I also know that most people who I know who do not change their oil at 3000 miles and who uses the cheapest shit they can get all seem to have cars that only last 100,000 miles. Its a quality thing that not everyone is into obviously. This wasn't meant to be a pissing contest, but a discussion of technique and methods and products and stuff.

[biggestmexi]

I know, and I also know that most people who I know who do not change their oil at 3000 miles and who uses the cheapest shit they can get all seem to have cars that only last 100,000 miles. Its a quality thing that not everyone is into obviously. This wasn't meant to be a pissing contest, but a discussion of technique and methods and products and stuff.

oh well then buy a jack. (and jack stands of course)

its more useful than you think.

cause then youll be able to rotate your own tires next :tongue:

[Nothing Sound]

I know, and I also know that most people who I know who do not change their oil at 3000 miles and who uses the cheapest shit they can get all seem to have cars that only last 100,000 miles.

Those are probably American cars.
I hate to say it, but American cars blow.
That's why they're all bankrupt.

[Freitag]

I need to get my first change soon, the Edge is right around 3500 miles..

[Seinfez]

whats the deal with oil changes? should i go by the date or the mileage? i never know!!!!

[angrymissy]

My Honda CRV has one of those "Oil Life Indicator" things, and it tells me to change my oil when Oil Life gets to 15%. I usually change it at 25%.

Sometimes it takes 8-10k miles to get down to 25%. Being conditioned by my Grandfather to always change oil every 3k miles, this bothers the hell out of me, but the dealer says it's fine to change it according to the monitor.

Is that really the case??

[Nothing Sound]

whats the deal with oil changes? should i go by the date or the mileage? i never know!!!!

I do mine by miles because I travel so many and they're mostly highway miles.
I try to do it every 5,000 miles, but have gone as long as 10,000.

[sr71blackbird]

I have seen nothing that ever said changing it sooner than recommended is bad, so keep in mind what I said and the nature of the car business. They want you to keep buying cars and if they could, they'd make them to break down at 50,000 miles just to get you to keep buying. I'm not of that mindset. I want my stuff to last as long as possible, even if I have the added expense of having my oil changed more than "necessary", by their standards.

[underdog]

My Honda CRV has one of those "Oil Life Indicator" things, and it tells me to change my oil when Oil Life gets to 15%. I usually change it at 25%.

Sometimes it takes 8-10k miles to get down to 25%. Being conditioned by my Grandfather to always change oil every 3k miles, this bothers the hell out of me, but the dealer says it's fine to change it according to the monitor.

Is that really the case??

I do the same thing with my accord.

[boosterp]

4 words-fumoto oil drain valve. Fuck drain plugs and hot oil bathes. May not be good for every vehicle but its great on my chevy diesel pickup.

I like that, but it would likely hang just below my skid plate and I'd hate to knock it off.

Those are probably American cars.
I hate to say it, but American cars blow.
That's why they're all bankrupt.

I guess I have been lucky over the past 20 years with 6 Fords.

My Honda CRV has one of those "Oil Life Indicator" things, and it tells me to change my oil when Oil Life gets to 15%. I usually change it at 25%.

Sometimes it takes 8-10k miles to get down to 25%. Being conditioned by my Grandfather to always change oil every 3k miles, this bothers the hell out of me, but the dealer says it's fine to change it according to the monitor.

Is that really the case??

It really depends on what your service manual says and the kind of driving you do. A lot of traffic driving and I'd go no longer than 6k between changes.

[instrument]

Unless honda has changed something those "oil life" guages are bs and are programmed at pre-set intervals and don't run any sort of diagnostics on your oil.

Just like the old "service lights" that the dealership would reset manually.

If someone has info that hondas now include a on-board fluid analyzer please let me know.

[underdog]

Unless honda has changed something those "oil life" guages are bs and are programmed at pre-set intervals and don't run any sort of diagnostics on your oil.

Just like the old "service lights" that the dealership would reset manually.

If someone has info that hondas now include a on-board fluid analyzer please let me know.

Eh, I don't care either way. It's a lease.

[biggestmexi]

I have seen nothing that ever said changing it sooner than recommended is bad, so keep in mind what I said and the nature of the car business. They want you to keep buying cars and if they could, they'd make them to break down at 50,000 miles just to get you to keep buying. I'm not of that mindset. I want my stuff to last as long as possible, even if I have the added expense of having my oil changed more than "necessary", by their standards.

yes fez. everyone everywhere is in absolute cahoots.

WACK JOB!

and they could easily make cars break down as son as they want so you know.

[tanless1]

Delo 15w40 . Use it in all my vehicles. Change it ever 10-15000 or when I get aroundto it....my 400k + nissan is truley tired. My 249k windstar rockn down the road 380k + honda civic got tboned so had
To stop driving it......

[boosterp]

Unless honda has changed something those "oil life" guages are bs and are programmed at pre-set intervals and don't run any sort of diagnostics on your oil.

Just like the old "service lights" that the dealership would reset manually.

If someone has info that hondas now include a on-board fluid analyzer please let me know.

Like Toyota and Ford Honda's is based on mileage driven but also measures the restriction of oil flow past the filter, bypass valve. This is only on the newest of vehicles, prior to that it was a pre-set 4500, 5000, or 6000 mile mark

[FrogSlayer]

Delo 15w40 . Use it in all my vehicles. Change it ever 10-15000 or when I get aroundto it....my 400k + nissan is truley tired. My 249k windstar rockn down the road 380k + honda civic got tboned so had
To stop driving it......

Isnt Delo formulated for diesels?
If that is anything like my rotella 15w40 that shit is thick as molasses.

[Jughead]

We blew up 82 cars...You would be amazed how long and hard most of the engines ran on NO OIL!!!..Then we added the liquid glass took all the fun out of it they just quit........I just watched(From a distance I might add)...:smile:

[biggestmexi]

We blew up 82 cars...You would be amazed how long and hard most of the engines ran on NO OIL!!!..Then we added the liquid glass took all the fun out of it they just quit........I just watched(From a distance I might add)...:smile:

its caled sodium silicate.

and that stuff uses the sand i test at my work.

Id like to get some of that stuff for myself.

[SatCam]

I have seen nothing that ever said changing it sooner than recommended is bad, so keep in mind what I said and the nature of the car business. They want you to keep buying cars and if they could, they'd make them to break down at 50,000 miles just to get you to keep buying. I'm not of that mindset. I want my stuff to last as long as possible, even if I have the added expense of having my oil changed more than "necessary", by their standards.

youre a lunatic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Jughead]

youre a lunatic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:lol:..Sorry Bird..all in good fun:smile:..But he is right!!!

[Jughead]

its caled sodium silicate.

and that stuff uses the sand i test at my work.

Id like to get some of that stuff for myself.

I knew some one would know the name of it........They would hold the gas pedal down for5-10 minutes sometimes and still run like a top with no oil..That sodium silicate ruined all there fun....Not sure if we had to buy it and was reimbursed never asked..

[tanless1]

Isnt Delo formulated for diesels?
If that is anything like my rotella 15w40 that shit is thick as molasses.
Yes, I also use it in my big truck. It was going in my little vcars long before that.
Good oil w/ a good milage base makes it all possible.
I'm not saying you should do it my way

[FrogSlayer]

Yes, I also use it in my big truck. It was going in my little vcars long before that.
Good oil w/ a good milage base makes it all possible.
I'm not saying you should do it my way

I have run it in my lawnmowers, but I think it would choke my honda.

[sr71blackbird]

Fine, say I am a lunatic, I just know what I know and it works flawlessly for me and causes no harm at all as far as I am concerned and my cars show for it. If it is true that the oil can hold up and do its job well over 4 or 5,000 miles, thats fine if you want to go there, I just dont want to. If I am wasting money, who cares? Its my money and my car. Do whatever you want, but I know there are people out there far more obsessive than I am about that stuff and others.
Also, right up front I said I was using a jack and opted to try the ramps due to claustrophobia, so it shows that not everyone reads everything anyway, let alone voluminous research by scientists.

[tanless1]

....Could you also say that your mother has not broken her back ,as you have not stepped on a crack ?

I do hope you are using jackstands w/ said jack. You seem like a smart guy, doesn't stop you from being stupid though.

[SatCam]

Fine, say I am a lunatic, I just know what I know and it works flawlessly for me and causes no harm at all as far as I am concerned and my cars show for it. If it is true that the oil can hold up and do its job well over 4 or 5,000 miles, thats fine if you want to go there, I just dont want to. If I am wasting money, who cares? Its my money and my car. Do whatever you want, but I know there are people out there far more obsessive than I am about that stuff and others.

Your logic is flawed. You're so obsessed with your oil but do you maintain the other parts of your car as diligently? Do you flush your brake fluid every 3,000 miles? Do you check your tire pressure every morning? Do you change your transmission fluid on the first of every month? For some reason you're just obsessed with changing your engine oil. There are better things in life to spend my money on than a (synthetic!!!!!) oil change every 3 months. Basically one out of every two oil changes you do is a complete waste and there is scientific fact to back that up.

Also, right up front I said I was using a jack and opted to try the ramps due to claustrophobia, so it shows that not everyone reads everything anyway, let alone voluminous research by scientists.

ramps are good for oil changes and not much else. you should really stop doing so many oil changes, save up the money and buy a lift for your garage

[tanless1]

...aren't those down to 2500. Now ?

[boosterp]

Your logic is flawed. You're so obsessed with your oil but do you maintain the other parts of your car as diligently? Do you flush your brake fluid every 3,000 miles? Do you check your tire pressure every morning? Do you change your transmission fluid on the first of every month? For some reason you're just obsessed with changing your engine oil. There are better things in life to spend my money on than a (synthetic!!!!!) oil change every 3 months. Basically one out of every two oil changes you do is a complete waste and there is scientific fact to back that up.



ramps are good for oil changes and not much else. you should really stop doing so many oil changes, save up the money and buy a lift for your garage

Brake fluid and transmission every 50k and tire pressure once a month. I grease the front end every oil change, the transfer case and front and rear diffs get changed every 25k. I have 39k on my tires which still look new, an air filter that gets cleaned every 6k or as needed, and I clean my engine and under carriage every other month. My Bronco is 13 years old and about to hit 90k with out a major problem. My Ranger, also 13 years old finally needs a new clutch. My anal or diligence has worked thus far.

[sr71blackbird]

Thank you boosterp!
I had been just using a hydraulic floor jack and know that I have been lucky that it never failed on me, and I know I should have used jack stands as well. But I havent, but since I am pleased with this initial trial of these ramps, I will likely keep using them instead. I did order that Fumoso Oil Drain valve, as it seems well made and raved about across the board and may make this easier for me.
Satcam, I have the tranny fluid changed every other year with synthetic as well, I use synthetic in my scooter and also my mini van, and I use that same additive in all engines. I have not looked into the additive in the tranny fluid, but if there is, I might try it, but I ever really hear about tranny issues like engine issues. My logic is not as flawed as you seem to believe. Like I said, I know I can probably go longer between changes and all, but I choose to do this and I feel good about it. The car treats me good and lasts and lasts for me in return, so its not a bad trade off. So it costs me money, thats okay, its my money and I make enough to do it, so its my business. Boosterp also seems to take care of his trucks similarly and they last him, so it cannot possibly be wrong to do so, and certainly cannot cause any harm. I do take care of the other fluids as well and only get the best fluid and parts that I can afford.

This thread was suppose to be about sharing experiences and technique, methods and discussion of the topic, and not a critique of me or why I do what I do, so keep it on topic or find another thread to ruin.

Thanks

[biggestmexi]

Thank you boosterp!
I had been just using a hydraulic floor jack and know that I have been lucky that it never failed on me, and I know I should have used jack stands as well. But I havent, but since I am pleased with this initial trial of these ramps, I will likely keep using them instead. I did order that Fumoso Oil Drain valve, as it seems well made and raved about across the board and may make this easier for me.
Satcam, I have the tranny fluid changed every other year with synthetic as well, I use synthetic in my scooter and also my mini van, and I use that same additive in all engines. I have not looked into the additive in the tranny fluid, but if there is, I might try it, but I ever really hear about tranny issues like engine issues. My logic is not as flawed as you seem to believe. Like I said, I know I can probably go longer between changes and all, but I choose to do this and I feel good about it. The car treats me good and lasts and lasts for me in return, so its not a bad trade off. So it costs me money, thats okay, its my money and I make enough to do it, so its my business. Boosterp also seems to take care of his trucks similarly and they last him, so it cannot possibly be wrong to do so, and certainly cannot cause any harm. I do take care of the other fluids as well and only get the best fluid and parts that I can afford.

This thread was suppose to be about sharing experiences and technique, methods and discussion of the topic, and not a critique of me or why I do what I do, so keep it on topic or find another thread to ruin.

Thanks

you make me and various other racing people laugh a good laugh too.

but you got the oney to waste like you say. insead of saving it and buying a newer car.

[RhinoinMN]

Thank you boosterp!
I had been just using a hydraulic floor jack and know that I have been lucky that it never failed on me, and I know I should have used jack stands as well. But I havent, but since I am pleased with this initial trial of these ramps, I will likely keep using them instead.

This thread was suppose to be about sharing experiences and technique, methods and discussion of the topic, and not a critique of me or why I do what I do, so keep it on topic or find another thread to ruin.

Thanks

My best friends brother used ramps and did not chock the wheels. He must not have had the e-brake on either.

His buddy was leaning against the car when my buddy's brother was under it. The car rolled down the ramps and smashed his skull.

He is close to a vegetable now.

Please be careful. It is worth the time and money to use the proper equipment and use the equipment properly.

[instrument]

I had a jack fail with my old volvo 850, glad I wasn't under it, I use jack stands and cinderblocks now as a back up.

And why don't you just do an oil analyzer? It'll tell you how your oil is doing at the time of a change.

And I really hope you're recycling your oil.... And I'd love to know what friends you have with camrys that aren't lasting 100,000 miles?

And since you seem so into changing your oil have you ever considered using royal purple or redline? Those synthetics last at least 10.000 miles.

Also you shouldn't use synthetic in your transmission, the gears rely on friction to change smoothly, if your car were a manual you'd feel the difference...but I'm assuming it's not.

[sr71blackbird]

I have the tranny fluid changed at the dealer, so I assume they use the right one. I was pretty sure it's sythetic. Ill have to check. The car is an automatic. I would change the oil even if it were rated to last 10,000 miles, because I don't trust the other components (filter, engine wearn contaminates in air and fuel, etc.)
I may make you racer guys laugh, but remember, you only know what you were told and leared from whoever taught you. No ones perfect and has every bit of information, so they pass on what they know. I'm not saying you or anyone is wrong of claiming anyones logic is flawed as mine has been accused of. Do what you want.
An engine is a volitile place, full of heat, pressure, friction and chemical reactions.
To me, if its lubrication is continually changed, the solids that are suspended within the oil have less of a chance to erode the surfaces.
I was using Fram filters as long as I have been doing this, but recently started using K&N filters because it has a nut built into it and it makes it a lot easier.

http://nects.net/slogg/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/oilfilterswrenchl.jpg

[instrument]

That's weird, a lot of places use a synthetic but will use a friction additive for the tranny.

And I don't see anythig wrong with changing it early, but I'm guessing if you got it analyzed you'd find that it wasn't broken down at that interval.

I guess having had my first car handed down from my mom, and knowing how often it was run for 10,000 miles on conventional oil and it running trouble free for 360,000 miles (94 civic) I just don't buy your claims of your friends cars blowing up.

Hell my mom never even changed her timing belt.

[boosterp]

you make me and various other racing people laugh a good laugh too.

but you got the oney to waste like you say. insead of saving it and buying a newer car.

I use to race (amateur and not legally though) and spent more then than I do now on maintenance.

I have the tranny fluid changed at the dealer, so I assume they use the right one. I was pretty sure it's sythetic. Ill have to check. The car is an automatic. I would change the oil even if it were rated to last 10,000 miles, because I don't trust the other components (filter, engine wearn contaminates in air and fuel, etc.)
I may make you racer guys laugh, but remember, you only know what you were told and leared from whoever taught you. No ones perfect and has every bit of information, so they pass on what they know. I'm not saying you or anyone is wrong of claiming anyones logic is flawed as mine has been accused of. Do what you want.
An engine is a volitile place, full of heat, pressure, friction and chemical reactions.
To me, if its lubrication is continually changed, the solids that are suspended within the oil have less of a chance to erode the surfaces.
I was using Fram filters as long as I have been doing this, but recently started using K&N filters because it has a nut built into it and it makes it a lot easier.

http://nects.net/slogg/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/oilfilterswrenchl.jpg

Again, I agree with you. My first truck was 11 years old when I sold it, still running like a champ. My second truck ran great for the 4 years I had it, traded it in for another. Every vehicle I have owned, no major problems. Maintenance is key to keeping the vehicle running optimally and safely. But, you can not ignore things as simple as door hinges and window seals too. These items are also vital to the life of the vehicle.

I tow, go off road, drive in traffic, and drive distance and my preventive maintenance makes all this possible on an older vehicle. Before I sold my 06 F-150 I was just as vigilant with maintenance as I am with my older vehicles. My bike (Honda Shadow) was also pampered. The last thing you want is something to break on a bike, going down the highway, and the only thing between the road and you are the clothes and helmet you're wearing.

That's weird, a lot of places use a synthetic but will use a friction additive for the tranny.

And I don't see anythig wrong with changing it early, but I'm guessing if you got it analyzed you'd find that it wasn't broken down at that interval.

I guess having had my first car handed down from my mom, and knowing how often it was run for 10,000 miles on conventional oil and it running trouble free for 360,000 miles (94 civic) I just don't buy your claims of your friends cars blowing up.

Hell my mom never even changed her timing belt.

Transmission fluid is basically mineral oil with a carcinogenic color additive and some anti-friction components. The synthetic portion of the fluid is where/how the mineral oil is made. This type of oil has been used for 3 decades because it provides a thin film (varnish) buildup that not only provides a small amount of friction to the components that need it but also because mineral oil has a high flash point. Changing your fluid too soon can cause serious transmission problems because this varnish is washed away by the new fluid. It takes time to build the varnish to occur again. This is more so an issue when you flush the transmission because you are completely removing the varnish from the system and not changing the transmission filter and gasket. Most vehicles only require one fluid change at the beginning of the transmission's life. But, again this is a preference.

[Syd]

Speaking of transmission fluid, is there a "too often" on changing MTX fluid? I'm kicking around the idea, I don't like how my current oil is shifting and I am considering draining it for something else. The oil has been in there for about 5 or 6 months now and about 3-5k miles, give or take.

[boosterp]

Speaking of transmission fluid, is there a "too often" on changing MTX fluid? I'm kicking around the idea, I don't like how my current oil is shifting and I am considering draining it for something else. The oil has been in there for about 5 or 6 months now and about 3-5k miles, give or take.

I would double check your fluid level first, do this after some heavy driving. Have you been through high water? If so it is important on a MTX to change the fluid because water could get in through the vent. Did you use the correct fluid? Dextron, Mercon, etc. all have different properties and can not be interchanged unless the owner's manual states different.

Otherwise, I would wait it out/ While the varnishing effect is more important to an automatic, in a manual it does help sling the gears. How many miles did you have prior to the fluid change?

[biggestmexi]

I would change the oil even if it were rated to last 10,000 miles, because I don't trust the other components (filter, engine wearn contaminates in air and fuel, etc.)

But you trust some additive that you really know nothing about?

why dont you buy that oil purification thing then advertised on the XM?

What contaminates are going pass your air filter and fuel filter? those particles that manage to get pass are microns small. how often do you change those filters?

How often do you check the gap on your plugs? have you ever scanned your car for Knock retard?

all things that will ruin your engine.

An engine is a volitile place, full of heat, pressure, friction and chemical reactions.

I didnt know

To me, if its lubrication is continually changed, the solids that are suspended within the oil have less of a chance to erode the surfaces.


what solids in the oil are you talking about?

and due you realize that there is magnetic strips in your tranny(transmission) pan to catch metal shavings?

They also sell magnetic drain plugs to pick up all the metal shaving in your oil.

Engines can withstand more than you think. they are not , most arent, made of glass my friend.

[biggestmexi]

I knew some one would know the name of it........They would hold the gas pedal down for5-10 minutes sometimes and still run like a top with no oil..That sodium silicate ruined all there fun....Not sure if we had to buy it and was reimbursed never asked..

I keep asking my boss to get me some of that. It would be cool.

It is LITERALLY liquid glass. Once in the engine it evaporates and then turn to glass.

but have you noticed "certain" auto makers engine run longer sans oil than others?

[Syd]

I would double check your fluid level first, do this after some heavy driving. Have you been through high water? If so it is important on a MTX to change the fluid because water could get in through the vent. Did you use the correct fluid? Dextron, Mercon, etc. all have different properties and can not be interchanged unless the owner's manual states different.

Otherwise, I would wait it out/ While the varnishing effect is more important to an automatic, in a manual it does help sling the gears. How many miles did you have prior to the fluid change?

I don't think I've really ever been through any sort of high water, the fluid level "ought" to be fine but it's pretty difficult to check. As far as the oil went, I just threw in some synthetic Amsoil 75W90 GL-5 -- matching the spec required for the transmission/LSD. I'll probably just wait it out, the shifting isn't bad and it is less bad than it was when cold with the factory stuff. I don't really want to put the transmission through the extra stress of new oil I guess, just sort of thinking it out loud but I guess ultimately it's a bad choice.

[SatCam]

I had been just using a hydraulic floor jack and know that I have been lucky that it never failed on me, and I know I should have used jack stands as well.

ok this right here is why im going to stop trying to change your mind about the oil changes

[Jughead]

I keep asking my boss to get me some of that. It would be cool.

It is LITERALLY liquid glass. Once in the engine it evaporates and then turn to glass.

but have you noticed "certain" auto makers engine run longer sans oil than others?

It seemed to be kinda random to brand....Some were unbelievable ( one was a 108k cady and I remember a 6 cylinder ford truck running forever!!!@ about 6000 rpm..Even the mechanics were amazed....they had a lot of fun doing that.....

[sr71blackbird]

ok this right here is why im going to stop trying to change your mind about the oil changes

This is also part of the reason I opted to use the ramps. There is no chance of the thing falling that way. It could roll back, but I always had the parking brake and the rear wheels chocked anyway when doing the change. No need to try and change my mind bro, I like doing it my way and I know it's good for the car.

[boosterp]

I don't think I've really ever been through any sort of high water, the fluid level "ought" to be fine but it's pretty difficult to check. As far as the oil went, I just threw in some synthetic Amsoil 75W90 GL-5 -- matching the spec required for the transmission/LSD. I'll probably just wait it out, the shifting isn't bad and it is less bad than it was when cold with the factory stuff. I don't really want to put the transmission through the extra stress of new oil I guess, just sort of thinking it out loud but I guess ultimately it's a bad choice.

Yea, I'd wait too. The most telling sign will be when the temps hover near freezing.

[Syd]

Also in general for oil changes, just throwing it out there if you have a turbocharged car you might go check out what your car forums say for using Rotella 5W40. I've been using it now for about a year and the 2 UOAs (used oil analysis) I have had came back showing stellar numbers from it. It's available usually in just 1 gallon containers from WalMart for a bit under $20 and once in a blue moon they'll stock 1qts for around $6. Very good for turbochargers, very cheap and it's SM certified now so it'll run just dandy in a gas engine though it is branded as a diesel oil.

[GregoryJoseph]

You have to change it?

[IMSlacker]

You have to change it?

Seriously. Aren't you supposed to wait until the oil light comes on?

[Tenbatsuzen]

Why do people say it's better to change your own oil when that's not the case?

I got my oil changed and tires rotated AND fluids topped off for 20 bucks today.

I needed an air filter, so I went to Wal-Mart to get it.

If I wanted 5 quarts of a mid-range oil, Wal-Mart wanted between 15-18 for it.

Plus 6-8 dollars for the oil filter

Plus 2 dollars for washer fluid

Never mind the fact you can't easily rotate your tires on your own

It just seems more expensive and more of a hassle to change it yourself.

[PapaBear]

Why do people say it's better to change your own oil when that's not the case?

I got my oil changed and tires rotated AND fluids topped off for 20 bucks today.

I needed an air filter, so I went to Wal-Mart to get it.

If I wanted 5 quarts of a mid-range oil, Wal-Mart wanted between 15-18 for it.

Plus 6-8 dollars for the oil filter

Plus 2 dollars for washer fluid

Never mind the fact you can't easily rotate your tires on your own

It just seems more expensive and more of a hassle to change it yourself.

For me, 5 quarts of the Mobile One oil that I use, costs about 20-25 bucks. The filter (most expensive Fram filter for high mileage cars) is about 3-4 bucks. If I were to go to a shop and get an oil change with the same oil and filter, it would cost about 40-50 bucks.

I get my tires at Costco. They include free lifetime rotation.

When I'm doing my own oil change, I also inspect all of the issues that I know my car may possibly have. Because I drive the car every day, and I know what's going on with MY car.

[disneyspy]

sure you can check the little things but i'm with matty for 20 bucks your in and out at an oil change place,whenever i do it myself shit takes for ever

[Snacks]

I agree and never understood it. Yea PB in your case you are saving about $10 if that, but is all that work and getting dirty and time wasted worth the $10?

[cougarjake13]

im too lazy to fuck with that shit


plus with coupons and shit its about 14.95 for everything


for that price i aint fucking with doing it myself

[PapaBear]

I agree and never understood it. Yea PB in your case you are saving about $10 if that, but is all that work and getting dirty and time wasted worth the $10?
It's $20 saved. All that time? Ten minutes. Maybe 15 if I'm feeling slow and lazy. Dirty? I know how to wash my hands. I was taught how at an early age. Work? Yeah. It's really hard to turn a nut with a ratchet and pour liquid out of a bottle. In good weather I don't even have to use a jack. I just park it over the low point in my front yard.

[StanUpshaw]

Change my own oil?

Fuck no, I'm white.

[Snacks]

It's $20 saved. All that time? Ten minutes. Maybe 15 if I'm feeling slow and lazy. Dirty? I know how to wash my hands. I was taught how at an early age. Work? Yeah. It's really hard to turn a nut with a ratchet and pour liquid out of a bottle. In good weather I don't even have to use a jack. I just park it over the low point in my front yard.

you also need to dispose of the old oil and old filter doesnt that cost you money?

if you dont mind doing it thats cool but to me it just doesnt seem worth it especially when i dont get super expensive oil i get 10w30 or whatever the norm is. it cost me $19 to have them do it and i would pay the same amount for the oil and filter anyway. add on all the other stuff they do and i dont have to waste time going anywhere except there.

[PapaBear]

you also need to dispose of the old oil and old filter doesnt that cost you money?

if you dont mind doing it thats cool but to me it just doesnt seem worth it especially when i dont get super expensive oil i get 10w30 or whatever the norm is. it cost me $19 to have them do it and i would pay the same amount for the oil and filter anyway. add on all the other stuff they do and i dont have to waste time going anywhere except there.
It doesn't cost a penny. I take my drip pan/jug thing and the filter to any auto parts store or anywhere that does oil changes, and dump it for free. They get money to recycle it, so they don't charge to take it. It's free money to them.

My car is 11 years old and has over 200K miles. I started using synthetic oil when it had about 40K miles on it. Once you start using synthetic, you have to keep using it. But even if you could go back to regular oil, I never would. It has kept my car running well, and you can really stretch out the number of miles between changes with synth. I tend to change it every 6-7k miles. I sometimes let it go as far as 10k, but I haven't done that in a while.

I also understand why people would pay to get oil changes. But don't just do it blindly. Make sure you know what oil they are using, and also make sure you know what the quality of the filter is. There are really cheap filters out there, and you also have to make sure you use a filter that's suited to the mileage of your car. Oil change places will use anything you want them to use (for the right price). But if you don't say anything, and just get the cheapest oil change, you're going to get the cheapest oil and filters available.

Also, in this wondrous modern age of online services such as yelp (or whatever), make sure you check their ratings on a regular basis. Shops that specialize in oil changes can sometimes have a high turnover in employees. Some are competent. Some aren't. About ten years ago, one local place had a horrible manager. This place had a very high volume of traffic, because (as a semi respected national chain) people just automatically trusted them. As it turns out, they had a fairly high rate of employees forgetting to do things like putting the oil pan nut back in before adding the new oil. The result... They put in new oil. It drained out. Customers drove off with no oil in their cars. Engines shit the bed a few blocks away. The company, of course payed to replace the engines, but that's still a major hassle.

[biggestmexi]

.

papabear, we use mobil one, they won't understand.