View Full Version : Berlin
yojimbo7248
12-03-2008, 03:01 AM
I am going to be in Berlin for a couple weeks, including Christmas and New Year's. I have never been there and would appreciate any advice on interesting things to see, places to go, or good restaurants. I'm sure there are relatively unknown parts of former East Berlin that could be great to see. Thanks in advance for any advice on staying in the city or traveling to Germany in general.
Since it is a Berlin thread, also feel free to make random comments about the 80's radio friendly new wave band.
SuperKarateMonkeyDeathFez
12-03-2008, 04:08 AM
I'm there right now (this is Mojo, FYI. I can't remember what my password is).
The war stuff is awesome, the Cold War stuff is awesome (seek out anything and everything with both, it's fascinating), but the rest? Ehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...the weather fucking sucks right now and it seems like it's getting dark around 3 PM. It's grey and rainy/snowy/slushy seemingly all the damn time. Berlin definitely suffers from having been in the east part of the country for so many decades in terms of its vibe and shit to do. If you can make the long haul to places like Munich, I'd definitely reccomend it if you want more of an "ye olde Europe vibe" since there isn't much of that left in Berlin due to it being bombed almost to nothing and then rebuilt 60+ years ago. The time of year really limits where you can outside of the cities in terms of historical sites due to a lot of them being closed for the winter or having VERY limited hours (usually just on weekends), so check ahead and plan carefully.
Food-wise...again, ehhhhhhhhhhhhhh. It's great for the first week due to the beer and meat and potatos and such...but that does actually get old when you don't really have much alternatives. Most of the non-German food you'll want isn't terribly good, though the Irish pubs tend to have surprisingly good food.
Sorry for the non-enthused post, but if I wasn't here to see family, I wouldn't reccomend anything besides a week-long trip at the most. Berlin kinda blows after about 5 days.
yojimbo7248
12-03-2008, 04:25 AM
I'm there right now (this is Mojo, FYI. I can't remember what my password is).
The war stuff is awesome, the Cold War stuff is awesome (seek out anything and everything with both, it's fascinating), but the rest? Ehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...the weather fucking sucks right now and it seems like it's getting dark around 3 PM. It's grey and rainy/snowy/slushy seemingly all the damn time. Berlin definitely suffers from having been in the east part of the country for so many decades in terms of its vibe and shit to do. If you can make the long haul to places like Munich, I'd definitely reccomend it if you want more of an "ye olde Europe vibe" since there isn't much of that left in Berlin due to it being bombed almost to nothing and then rebuilt 60+ years ago. The time of year really limits where you can outside of the cities in terms of historical sites due to a lot of them being closed for the winter or having VERY limited hours (usually just on weekends), so check ahead and plan carefully.
Food-wise...again, ehhhhhhhhhhhhhh. It's great for the first week due to the beer and meat and potatos and such...but that does actually get old when you don't really have much alternatives. Most of the non-German food you'll want isn't terribly good, though the Irish pubs tend to have surprisingly good food.
Sorry for the non-enthused post, but if I wasn't here to see family, I wouldn't reccomend anything besides a week-long trip at the most. Berlin kinda blows after about 5 days.
wow, can't wait! Seriously, thanks, Mojo. That's useful advice on winter limited hours on stuff to see. I am a big fan of WWII and cold war history so hopefully that will keep me busy. I'm reading a book on Berlin history called "Faust's Metropolis" and it stresses how little charm the city has. I'd rather go someplace with low expectations and hopefully be pleasantly surprised, at least a little.
I am going to be in Berlin for a couple weeks, including Christmas and New Year's. I have never been there and would appreciate any advice on interesting things to see, places to go, or good restaurants. I'm sure there are relatively unknown parts of former East Berlin that could be great to see. Thanks in advance for any advice on staying in the city or traveling to Germany in general.
Since it is a Berlin thread, also feel free to make random comments about the 80's radio friendly new wave band.
Damn you! That's all I had and you took it away!
Freakshow
12-03-2008, 04:33 AM
you might want to look up the Tony Bourdain--No Reservations where he is in Berlin (it's on iTunes). I know he gets some Turkish food, and goes to a large a-la Carte place with all kinds of different stuff (but still intrinsically German). I think there's some sort of East Berlin cusine, but it escapes me at the moment.
I have not really travelled around Europe personally, but I think it would pretty east to hop a train to somewhere super cool like Bratislava, Vienna, Amersterdam, or Barcelona...
SuperKarateMonkeyDeathFez
12-03-2008, 04:35 AM
wow, can't wait! Seriously, thanks, Mojo. That's useful advice on winter limited hours on stuff to see. I am a big fan of WWII and cold war history so hopefully that will keep me busy. I'm reading a book on Berlin history called "Faust's Metropolis" and it stresses how little charm the city has. I'd rather go someplace with low expectations and hopefully be pleasantly surprised, at least a little.
The WW2 and Cold War stuff in the city is, fortunately, open either all the time or with easy to work with hours, even during the winter. It's just if you get out of the city that you need to be more careful as to what's actually open. All of that stuff is amazing and I love it, but I was surprised at how quickly you can burn through it in about a week, largely due to most of it having been destroyed or demolished and you're ultimately just reading some signs and plaques and such. It's actually more interesting finding the little things...spotting bullet holes and such that still remain in the buildings and trying to figure out which parts of which monuments and buildings were altered by the Nazis, the western Allies or the Soviets. Also, when you're walking around the city, look out for little golden/yellow bricks scattered around seemingly at random. What they each have is the names and dates of Jewish citizens who lived or worked at those locations and when they were taken away by the Nazis. It's very eerie and moving. I'll give them credit, the Germans have not shied away from the horrors of Nazi Germany, and you'll find tons of history and memorials to that time. Some of it is very subtle...if you go to the site of the big Berlin book-burning (by the Opera house), you'll find a glass panel in the middle of the square, and if you look into it it's just a small room, all-white, where the walls are just empty bookcases.
The art museums are interesting, so is the national history museum, as are some of the German history museums. There's a great history museum just past Humboldt University, which is also worth checking out. All of that is right by the Brandenberg Gate, which most of your visit in the city will likely be centered around.
Random aside...it really makes me nervous how freakin' white this country is.
Oh, and for transporation, the buses and especially the trains are fantastic there and very easy to figure out and get you all over the city. Just try and avoid the rush before or after any of the soccer games...that's a little bonkers.
I forgot with the food...Bosnian cuisine here is surprisingly good.
you might want to look up the Tony Bourdain--No Reservations where he is in Berlin (it's on iTunes). I know he gets some Turkish food, and goes to a large a-la Carte place with all kinds of different stuff (but still intrinsically German). I think there's some sort of East Berlin cusine, but it escapes me at the moment.
I have not really travelled around Europe personally, but I think it would pretty east to hop a train to somewhere super cool like Bratislava, Vienna, Amersterdam, or Barcelona...
Good call, also see if you can find the Berlin episode of "Have Fork, Will Travel" on Food Network.
yojimbo7248
12-03-2008, 04:45 AM
Good call, also see if you can find the Berlin episode of "Have Fork, Will Travel" on Food Network.
Thanks, both No Reservations and Have Fork, Will Travel are good ideas.
El Mudo
12-03-2008, 04:58 AM
Stay away from the Reichstag
http://windowdrop.com/Blog_Post_Directory/VictoryDayReichstag.jpg
SuperKarateMonkeyDeathFez
12-03-2008, 05:05 AM
I'm trying to see if we can stop at the Maginot line (HIIIIIIIIIII-OOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHH) on our way to visit family in France, but no dice. Most of the major sections are closed for the winter, and those that are open are offering like a single tour on Saturdays. Bummer. Same with Bastogne, closed for the winter...though at least we can swing by Verdun.
DAMN YOU, HIBERNATING HISTORY.
Oh yeah, the best wursts are the weissvursts. Veal sausages, with an amazing sweetend mustard.
Freakshow
12-03-2008, 05:38 AM
i'd kill for a proper weisswurst right about now.
~Katja~
12-03-2008, 05:58 AM
ok, I have to admit reading the posts above are definitely looking at the city from an American point of view.
Berlin is a fantastic city, and so is Dresden, especially when you like history and museums.
Being that you will be there over the holidays and New Years (I am jealous) it is always great to visit some of the X-mas markets and there is a huge New Years Party at the Brandenburg Gate.
Visit the Alexander Platz, you will find the Weltzeituhr and also the Fernsehturm which you can go up and have a look over the city.
Whoever said stay away from the Reichstag, DON'T. You can visit it and go inside and walk up to the glass dome.
If you find one that is open, take a boat tour on the Spree. It will bring you from Tiergarten (a bit like central park) all the way to the Reichstag and beyond.)
Other points of interest may be Kurfuerstendamm (mainly shopping, it has the famous KaDeWe which was one of the most prestigious Department stores in Berlin)
Visit the many museums, and churches (Nikolaikirche is one of the most famous). There is a DDR Museum that exhibits about life in East Germany, it is definitely interesting. Also try the Pergamon-Museum (Ancient Greek and Mythology).
If you make it to Dresden (trains run from Berlin (1-1/2h south) the old city has hundreds of art museums, collections from the middle ages and it also has the Frauenkirche which was destroyed during WW2 and just recently rebuilt from the rubble and is now open for visitors again. Their X-mas market is also fantastic.
All in all Berlin has a lot of history, don't expect it to all be about WW I & II but a lot of history from 17-19th centuries.
If you make a trip outside of Berlin there is Sanssouci Palace near Potsdam (Castle of the Hohenzollern) .
As for foreign foods, don't expect chinese food to taste the way it would here, it is way more basic, less greasy and a lot more steamed dishes.
Try greek restaurants... they are awesome.
You haven't been to Berlin if you haven't tried a Currywurst, basically the same status as a Hot Dog of the streets of NYC.
Be open to new flavors and be prepared for a different life & eating style.
It would be great to be there in the summer as you have a lot of beer gardens and outdoor restaurants and you can sit with a cup of coffee or an ice cream creation for hours.
Service tends to be a bit less attentive than you find it here at restaurants tough...
Make sure to go to the many bakeries and try all kinds of sheet cakes and pastries. Eat as much bread as you can ;) and don't worry, you will walk so much that eating like that is not going to end up around the waist line.
I could go on and on and recommend you many places all over Germany... personally I never saw it to be as beautiful until I left and then came back to travel it a bit.
I do miss it especially during holiday season.
~Katja~
12-03-2008, 05:59 AM
i'd kill for a proper weisswurst right about now.
that and the Schweinshaxe is typical Bavarian food.
Freakshow
12-03-2008, 06:14 AM
<--- Traces ancestry on father's side to Baden-Württemberg.
~Katja~
12-03-2008, 06:19 AM
<--- Traces ancestry on father's side to Baden-Württemberg.
same difference, it's the state west of Bavaria, both very much south -west germany.
SuperKarateMonkeyDeathFez
12-03-2008, 06:58 AM
that and the Schweinshaxe is typical Bavarian food.
I definitely prefer the food and beer down there.
~Katja~
12-03-2008, 07:10 AM
I definitely prefer the food and beer down there.
if you prefer heavy and fatty foods, sure. most places all over Germany will serve a lighter meal.
Another good thing to eat is a "Broiler" as it is called in the East or a Grillhaenchen... which is basically a broiled/ roasted chicken which you get from street vendors. it tastes ten times better than a rotissery chicken from the stores here.
Every state has their signature dishes... in Leipzig for example a favorite is Leipziger Allerlei which is a soup.
Cakes to try at the bakeries that are really really delicious are Bienenstich, Eierschecke, Pflaumenkuchen, Pfannkuchen (Berliner)...
razorboy
12-03-2008, 09:13 AM
In Berlin, by the wall you were five foot ten inches tall. It was very nice, candlelight and Dubonnet on ice. We were in a small cafe, you could hear the guitars play. It was very nice, it was paradise.
Freakshow
12-03-2008, 09:16 AM
In Berlin, by the wall you were five foot ten inches tall. It was very nice, candlelight and Dubonnet on ice. We were in a small cafe, you could hear the guitars play. It was very nice, it was paradise.
I can't hear you. The winds of change are making hearing difficult...
yojimbo7248
12-03-2008, 09:24 AM
ok, I have to admit reading the posts above are definitely looking at the city from an American point of view.
Berlin is a fantastic city, and so is Dresden, especially when you like history and museums.
Being that you will be there over the holidays and New Years (I am jealous) it is always great to visit some of the X-mas markets and there is a huge New Years Party at the Brandenburg Gate.
Visit the Alexander Platz, you will find the Weltzeituhr and also the Fernsehturm which you can go up and have a look over the city.
Whoever said stay away from the Reichstag, DON'T. You can visit it and go inside and walk up to the glass dome.
If you find one that is open, take a boat tour on the Spree. It will bring you from Tiergarten (a bit like central park) all the way to the Reichstag and beyond.)
Other points of interest may be Kurfuerstendamm (mainly shopping, it has the famous KaDeWe which was one of the most prestigious Department stores in Berlin)
Visit the many museums, and churches (Nikolaikirche is one of the most famous). There is a DDR Museum that exhibits about life in East Germany, it is definitely interesting. Also try the Pergamon-Museum (Ancient Greek and Mythology).
If you make it to Dresden (trains run from Berlin (1-1/2h south) the old city has hundreds of art museums, collections from the middle ages and it also has the Frauenkirche which was destroyed during WW2 and just recently rebuilt from the rubble and is now open for visitors again. Their X-mas market is also fantastic.
All in all Berlin has a lot of history, don't expect it to all be about WW I & II but a lot of history from 17-19th centuries.
If you make a trip outside of Berlin there is Sanssouci Palace near Potsdam (Castle of the Hohenzollern) .
As for foreign foods, don't expect chinese food to taste the way it would here, it is way more basic, less greasy and a lot more steamed dishes.
Try greek restaurants... they are awesome.
You haven't been to Berlin if you haven't tried a Currywurst, basically the same status as a Hot Dog of the streets of NYC.
Be open to new flavors and be prepared for a different life & eating style.
It would be great to be there in the summer as you have a lot of beer gardens and outdoor restaurants and you can sit with a cup of coffee or an ice cream creation for hours.
Service tends to be a bit less attentive than you find it here at restaurants tough...
Make sure to go to the many bakeries and try all kinds of sheet cakes and pastries. Eat as much bread as you can ;) and don't worry, you will walk so much that eating like that is not going to end up around the waist line.
I could go on and on and recommend you many places all over Germany... personally I never saw it to be as beautiful until I left and then came back to travel it a bit.
I do miss it especially during holiday season.
Thanks, Katja. Everything you wrote is helpful. I am really looking forward to the trip and am having a good time reading about the city's history.
SuperKarateMonkeyDeathFez
12-03-2008, 10:02 AM
if you prefer heavy and fatty foods, sure.
I don't, I just prefer those dishes from time to time when I have them. In general, for me, the local cuisine here kinda blows in terms of everyday eating and wanting to be full but not eat a lot of stuff that's unhealthy.
El Mudo
12-10-2008, 05:39 AM
I'm trying to see if we can stop at the Maginot line (HIIIIIIIIIII-OOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHH) on our way to visit family in France, but no dice. Most of the major sections are closed for the winter, and those that are open are offering like a single tour on Saturdays. Bummer. Same with Bastogne, closed for the winter...though at least we can swing by Verdun.
DAMN YOU, HIBERNATING HISTORY.
Oh yeah, the best wursts are the weissvursts. Veal sausages, with an amazing sweetend mustard.
Make sure you find some time to visit the Hurtgen Forest...site of one of our biggest disasters of the entire war
Skellington
12-10-2008, 08:46 AM
Go to the zug and get a all-around pass. You will learn to depend upon and love that train, and never ride without your ticket. Expect to walk a lot, therefore 6 inch platforms are a rather bad idea. Also, Leipzig is about 2 hours from berlin, and you can eat, smoke and drink (last time i was there) on the train. Leipzig has a lot of monuments and history stuff.
There is a neato bar off Alexandar Platz where you eat/drink at glass coffins and can get some brutal liter-steins of the schwarzbier. It's on the same street (i think) as the tattoo joint Blut und Eisen. Again, foggy memory, too much beer. I can get address's/info from friends that are still out there.
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