Do it yourself car repair

[PapaBear]

I could have sworn there was some kind of thread like this, but I can't find one. So anyway... Now we have one.

I've been having a problem with my 2000 Chevy Prizm (aka Toyota Corolla). My check engine light has been on and it's been under powered. The free test at Autozone couldn't pin point the problem, so I had a buddy read it with his car computer sensor. It came up with a code of P0171.

I Googled it and came up with the theory that the problem is with the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. It said that I just needed to remove it and spray it with electric parts cleaner. A little back story... I had this same problem less than two years ago, and it turned out the MAF was actually bad. I replaced it with a re manufactured one (new ones aren't cheap).

So... I tried this. The MAF didn't look dirty at all, but I sprayed it anyway. I haven't driven the car yet, but I can tell it's still not running that great. BTW... The problem caused by a bad or dirty MAF is lean fuel mixture (ei. too much air, and not enough fuel). Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this? The light is out, but I'm sure it will come back on after I drive the car tomorrow.

One side note... I also changed my oil. I do this all the time, but there's one thing that always freaks me out. I am never confident of the jack stand. I have terrible visions of the car coming down on top of my head. Not really asking a question here. Just venting.

[Snacks]

I cant help you with any of that. I just have a question. Why do you change your own oil? I have always wondered this. It cost me $15-$22 to change my oil, oil filter and do the checking of everything else. I would guess at best you would only be saving a couple of $$$'s or even costing yourself money. You have the danger of the car falling on you, the cost of the oil and filters and you have to dispose of the old oil properly. I dont get it!!!

[PapaBear]

The filter only costs 3 or 4 bucks. I use synthetic oil. A 5 quart jug of Mobile 1 costs $23. To have it done in a shop with Mobile 1, it would cost a minimum of 35-40 bucks. Since I drive my car so much, that would really add up over a year.

Edit... I just checked Walmart, and it would cost $47. Not that I'd get it done there. They were just the only one I could find online, and I doubt many places would be cheaper.

[conman823]

I use a good quick lube spot. I have an full sized SUV. I get an oil change, new filter, all fluids checked and topped off, air in tires, a vaccuming and a car wash all for $35. They will also change my air filter based on their records and my request (thats extra though).
They also have all oil grades and qualitys. I have a lease and sure as hell ain't paying dealer prices for changes. Although these Quick Lubes have a bad rep this one is very respectable and well managed. i know cost is key, but time is money also. I'm usually in and out in 15 mins.

As far as the air flow problem you may have dirt in the fuel tank or injectors (especially if you have had the issue in the past, or changed gas stations recently). Thats a major problem so don't bank on my word. I worked in shops in the past, a lot of the codes generated are general to lead the mechanic to the problem. You may need a dealers opinion on this.

[PapaBear]

I use a good quick lube spot. I have an full sized SUV. I get an oil change, new filter, all fluids checked and topped off, air in tires, a vaccuming and a car wash all for $35. They will also change my air filter based on their records and my request (thats extra though).
They also have all oil grades and qualitys
Again... With synthetic oil, it's MUCH more expensive. And about the air filter... The last time I had a shop change my oil, they changed my air filter. They charged me about $7 bucks more for the filter than it costs to buy it myself. Changing an air filter (on most vehicles) is about as complicated as pumping gas. Of course, I wouldn't expect the Jersey people to understand that, since they don't even let you pump your own gas there.:lol:

[joethebartender]

Again... With synthetic oil, it's MUCH more expensive. And about the air filter... The last time I had a shop change my oil, they changed my air filter. They charged me about $7 bucks more for the filter than it costs to buy it myself. Changing an air filter (on most vehicles) is about as complicated as pumping gas. Of course, I wouldn't expect the Jersey people to understand that, since they don't even let you pump your own gas there.:lol:

Right...it's terrible not to have to get out of the car in 20 degree weather to get your hands stinking of petrol and pay more money than other states to fill up.:dry:

[PapaBear]

[/b]

Right...it's terrible not to have to get out of the car in 20 degree weather to get your hands stinking of petrol and pay more money than other states to fill up.:dry:
Petrol? PETROL?!?!? Sorry. I'm Amurikin'. I only use GAS!

I see your point. I just like to do things for myself, when it comes to my car (and, I'm pretty sure fuel costs are about the same here). My only complaint is... Since the initial price increases that happened after Katrina, too many gas retailers require pre-payment before pumping, now. It sucks when I want to fill my tank. I have to give the cashier more than what it takes to fill up, then go get the change.

BTW... For those of us who pump our own gas, why are there three grades of gas, but only two counters (the counters used to do inventory) on the pumps? Seriously. Take a look at the pump next time. Almost every one of them have two inventory counters, on a pump that has three fuel grades. I think someone is getting ripped off.

[LordJezo]

You have the danger of the car falling on you, the cost of the oil and filters and you have to dispose of the old oil properly. I dont get it!!!

1) Danger of the car falling on you? With a multi ton jack and proper car stands placed under the car the chances of this happening are almost 0. If the jack loses pressure you have a bunch of stands rated to hold way more than the car is going to put on them.

2) Disposing of your own oil and filter: Step 1) take it to Wal Mart (or many auto parts stores). Step 2) dump in a big container.

With doing your own work on you car (when possible since newer cars are making it almost impossible to do anything yourself) you get to pick the exact components you put in your car, get the best price on them, and not have to worry about what the shop is (or isn't) doing. I know that my car is getting an AC Delco filter and good oil in it. For quality stuff it usually costs under $20, when they have B1G1 sales on oil it can be done for under $15. Plus on a nice spring or summer day it's a relaxing way to spend a half hour. Being under the car is fun. Like someone else said, the air filter is as simple as unclipping its container.

Take my brakes and rotors for example. For about $500 I got high end slotted and drilled rotors and name brand good quality ceramic pads. Would cost way more to get it taken in.

Things I can't do anymore: flush the radiator, they made the tubes impossible to mess with. Changing my own spark plugs and wires, Chevy decided to tilt the entire engine on it's side making the back ones unreachable. But this is not too bad as it's only done every 100,000 miles to 60,000 for the radiator.

[Bellyfullasnot]

Papa Bear knows best. I always change my own oil. When I was 16, a mechanic had stripped my oil pan plug and I had to helicoil the pan and kick myself for not doing it myself. I like jackstands but I use ramps. I use those plastic gray ramps that we all look at in pep boys and say "I wouldn't crawl under those". I have had a full size p/u on them and haven't had any problems. I do the air filter with every oil change. I know I'm wasting money but it's a car not a lawn mower. By the time I pull out my compressor and blow it out, I could replace it.

As far as the constant sensor problem, I feel your pain. I went nuts with an EVAP code on Mrs. Snots car and it was a vacumn line. Ask a service guy{mechanic, not writer} @ your local dealer. A lot of those guys will tell you what to look for.

[joethebartender]

Petrol? PETROL?!?!? Sorry. I'm Amurikin'. I only use GAS!

I see your point. I just like to do things for myself, when it comes to my car (and, I'm pretty sure fuel costs are about the same here). My only complaint is... Since the initial price increases that happened after Katrina, too many gas retailers require pre-payment before pumping, now. It sucks when I want to fill my tank. I have to give the cashier more than what it takes to fill up, then go get the change.

BTW... For those of us who pump our own gas, why are there three grades of gas, but only two counters (the counters used to do inventory) on the pumps? Seriously. Take a look at the pump next time. Almost every one of them have two inventory counters, on a pump that has three fuel grades. I think someone is getting ripped off.

I have six working tap handles behind the bar and only 2 kegs tapped in the walk-in fridge.:wink:

[biggestmexi]

so what exactly is the car doing? ie. chugging, surging, lack of power, certain RPM band range?

might be a clogged catalytic converter or possibly and EGR valve thats stuck.

[bigtim666]

i am a bit of a novice, start the car running and when its running start pulling sensors that are easily accessable. when you pull a sensor and their is no change in the idle, you have found the tainted part. start by the throttle, ie:throttle position sensor. use some carborator cleaner and a tooth pick. hope this process is helpful

[donnie_darko]

running lean could be a ton of things, o2 sensor and injectors would be the first place i'd check.

most car company's have message boards started by their owners just like ronfez.net, hondatech.com is my fave stop (for hondas of course), if you find the corolla/toyota board i'm sure in 20 minutes you'd have a very definitive answer.

[jra5444]

the first thing you need to check is that the air filter box is sealed,the screws or clips on the box are tight. if that is good check if the hose that moves the air from the filter box to the throttle has holes or splits, check it well its very common. any hole or split will cause the problem your having..... also remaned parts fail all the time.

[biggestmexi]

.

[Team_Ramrod]

I could have sworn there was some kind of thread like this, but I can't find one. So anyway... Now we have one.

I've been having a problem with my 2000 Chevy Prizm (aka Toyota Corolla). My check engine light has been on and it's been under powered. The free test at Autozone couldn't pin point the problem, so I had a buddy read it with his car computer sensor. It came up with a code of P0171.

I Googled it and came up with the theory that the problem is with the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. It said that I just needed to remove it and spray it with electric parts cleaner. A little back story... I had this same problem less than two years ago, and it turned out the MAF was actually bad. I replaced it with a re manufactured one (new ones aren't cheap).

So... I tried this. The MAF didn't look dirty at all, but I sprayed it anyway. I haven't driven the car yet, but I can tell it's still not running that great. BTW... The problem caused by a bad or dirty MAF is lean fuel mixture (ei. too much air, and not enough fuel). Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this? The light is out, but I'm sure it will come back on after I drive the car tomorrow.

One side note... I also changed my oil. I do this all the time, but there's one thing that always freaks me out. I am never confident of the jack stand. I have terrible visions of the car coming down on top of my head. Not really asking a question here. Just venting.

Your fuel injector is f'd.
Maybe, I'm no mechanic.

Papa, be sure to use wheel chalks when your car is up on stands. The Jack stands, if they are manufactured, should not fail. Make sure you are chalked properly... hate to have you get hurt.
http://www.dockplates-dockboards.com/images/Dock%20Bumpers%20&%20Wheel%20Chalks/WheelChalk.gif

http://i.ehow.com/images/ehows/steps/jackstands4_L.jpg